Costa Rica: Still That Beautiful

After leaving (escaping?) San Juan del Sur, I still had a few days to kill before meeting up with Michal, so I returned to Playa Tamarindo.  I spent five weeks in Playa Tamarindo between my junior and senior years in college: surfing, studying Spanish and partying (in approximately that order).  It was then that the seeds for this trip were planted.  I was curious to see what had become of the place in the intervening years.

Short answer: more of the same.

Sure, there is a big tall (empty) building that wasn't there before, and a couple of gated communities I don't remember from before, but the soul of the place remains the same.  It's all about surfing, partying and property development.  They call it Tama-gringo for a reason.  I checked into a relatively fancy hostel (A/C! a pool!) and spent the next two days drinking and lounging in the pool.  I didn't even make it to the beach.  And the second day was completely an accident: I was hungover from karaoke the night before (don't ask.  For the love of God, don't ask) and only meant to spend an hour or two in the pool recovering.  Yeah, right.

I eventually made it out, though, and met up with Michal.  We headed for Montezuma, a place I'd visited on my previous trip to Costa Rica and liked well enough to return.  There is a particular waterfall..

Oh, fuuuu..

Waahoooooooo!!!

I'd done the same 5 years ago, but as they say on the interwebz: "pix or it didn't happen."  Well here ya go, folks.  Using the first shot, where I'm standing above the falls, I estimate it to be about 8 times my height, or 40-45 feet.  Even having done it before and knowing it to be (relatively) safe, the first jump was pretty damn exciting.

 And that's not all: you have to climb back up afterwards.

It's hardly vertical, but it is pretty wet.  And towards the top you're a good 30+ feet above the rocks below.  Not a good place to slip.

So manly!

Christ, I was tan.

The view from the jump off point.  Note that there is another waterfall right there, but not one you want to jump off.  Oh, no. No.  It is imperative that you surface and swim to the left right away.

Wait, so masterful motor scooter handling is impressive but not jumping off tall waterfalls?  I don't get it.

The pool and smaller waterfalls above the big one.  Preeetty nice.

Montezuma's also got a pretty nice beach, but those are practically a dime-a-dozen in that part of the world.  And let's be honest: the waterfall was all I cared about.

From Montezuma a day's travel took us the length and breadth of the country to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, another place I'd visited before and desired to see again.  Puerto Viejo is on the Caribbean coast and has a completely different vibe from the rest of Costa Rica.  It's practically Rastafarian.  All I cared about, though, was seeing if my little mark remained.

It did!

When I was first in Puerto Viejo I stayed at a place called Rockin' J's Hostel.  The entire place is decorated: mosaics, murals, sculptures, you name it, and all by guests.  They have art supplies on hand for anyone that cares to add to the (already extensive) decorations.  When I was there in 2005 I spent two days decorating the locker I was using to store my backpack (I was renting a tent for something like $4/day; it's tough to lock a tent).

So cool.

 Also in Puerto Viejo: very nice beaches (yawn)..

..with some surprisingly good surf.

 And a sloth?!  Yes, indeed, a sloth.  Just chillin', ya know, changing trees, mon.  No worries, here.  None a'tall.

Seriously, though, how stoned does it look, with that dopey smile?  And it was completely unfazed by us taking pictures from only a couple feet away.  It just went about its business, spending a good 5 minutes getting from ground level to 6 feet up the trunk.  No need ta hurry, mon, ya know?

So that's it?  Only three stops in Costa Rica?  Isn't it supposed to be, like, paradise?  Yes, well, the thing is: paradise is wonderful right up until the property developers arrive.  Then it's locked behind tall walls and costs an arm and a leg to get into.  Don't get me wrong: Costa Rica is that great.  Go.  Right now.  You'll have an incredible time, I guarantee.

The main problem, from a backpacker perspective, is the cost.  In Nicaragua a bed in a dormitory cost $5-7.  In Costa Rica it's at least double that.  So too for food, booze and tours.  On a budget that is supposed to last for 3 or 6 or 12 months you simply can't afford to spend much time in Costa Rica.  Also, it just feels different.  I remember walking around Playa Tamarindo seeing American families, Mom, Dad, 2.2 kids and the dog, driving by in rented SUVs.  On the ferry to Montezuma, there were numerous life preservers, life rafts and a safety announcement.  That was repeated in English.  What country am I in again?

But seriously, don't listen to the jaded backpacker.  Go to Costa Rica.  You'll love it.