Sunday, December 30, 2012

הדירה החדשה של מיכל ובנג'מין

(Michal and Benjamin's New Apartment)

Michal and I recently moved from a very small ground level apartment in Nachla'ot (נחלאות) to a large, bright one bedroom in the city center.

It's only a 15 minute walk, according to Google.

First of all, the old place. It was about 250 square feet split between two rooms. Though it was small, it was in pretty good condition and we had it set up really well. It was just enough for Michal and I. Just. And we rather like each other.

 The front room. The front door is just out of frame to the left. The two windows on the far wall are on the same level as the alley outside.


The other side of the front room. Michal and her father, Asher, added the shelf on the right which held the microwave and toaster oven. Between them and the counter top gas range that's hidden behind the fridge, the kitchen worked surprisingly well.


 The bedroom. America is actually quite unusual to the extent that most bedrooms have built-in closets. We had that wardrobe pretty much completely filled.


Michal's desk and the bathroom, which made a telephone booth feel comparatively spacious.

And that's it! Quick tour, eh?

To be honest, though, the sheer size of the apartment wasn't why we moved. I may have grumbled when I first arrived, but as we grew accustomed to it, we stopped noticing its size. And it was certainly easy to keep clean. No, the problems were pretty much all outside the apartment itself, both literally and figuratively.

First and foremost, it wasn't much fun having our home on the same level as the alley outside. If we didn't keep the shutters low, all and sundry could look directly into our home. And even with the shutters lowered, we couldn't escape the sounds of our many neighbors. Nachla'ot is an old neighborhood that has only recently become popular again. It is very dense, with numerous small apartments built one atop another.

You can't help knowing what your neighbors are up to in a neighborhood like Nachla'ot. Photo source: flickr.

Also, a large percentage of the residents are still orthodox and Haredi Jewish families and/or what Israelis refer to as Mizrachi (מזרחי, literally "eastern," thus of Iranian, Iraqi, etc. descent). They are, quite frankly, outrageously loud. One woman in particular had Michal and I fantasizing about an epidemic of laryngitis. On a nearly daily basis, she would walk down the alley screaming at the top of her lungs for the most mundane reasons. "Yitzak! YI-I-I-T-ZAK!!" "What?!" "Give me a cigarette?" She and her brood were constantly arguing with each other and every night they'd search for their dog (whom they apparently never thought to keep inside), wandering through the alleys hollering "Snoopy! Come! Come, Snoopy!" I confess that at times I wished the dog would run away for good (or worse), just so I wouldn't  have to hear its name called every night.

So, yeah: it felt like all of Nachla'ot was traipsing through our living room shouting. And then there were the upstairs neighbors that dropped pool balls on the tile floor in the middle of the night and the landlord that wanted to raise the rent more than 25%. Clearly it was time to go.

What we found was a bit of a diamond in the rough. One might have also called it a dump. Though wonderfully located, well laid out and spacious, the former tenant didn't appear to have cleaned in, well.. ever. There were large and apparent water stains from a burst pipe several years before, numerous holes in the plaster and the floors featured such intractable stains that only bleach would (eventually) get them out.

But it had potential! So we signed a lease, bought some paint and asked Asher to loan us his tools.

A scaled floor plan of our new place. It's about 45m2 or 480 sq. ft. Click to embiggen.

Here's what it looked like when we took over.

 There are several things that confuse me about the layout of the apartment. This entryway for instance: why is it so big?


Neighbors told us that a pipe burst several years ago. Clearly repairing the damage wasn't a priority for the former tenant.


Ugh. Plaster falling off the wall above the tub. Heavy rust stains in the tub itself. And the worst: instead of a nice, clean line of silicone between the tub and sink and the tile there were fat rubber gaskets epoxied in place. All along their edges were years and years worth of grime and mold.


Halfway through cleaning the tile above the tub. It was like this everywhere.


An example of the terrible rubber gaskets, these from the kitchen sink. Ewwww.


The bedroom. Its walls were heavily stained beneath where a desk had been and above the bed.


 The kitchen, including the entire extent of cabinetry. The former tenant


 Another view of the kitchen looking out toward the "utility balcony" (מרפסת שרות). This is another mystifying feature of the apartment. Why waste windows on a utility area? Isn't it better to use that space inside the apartment?


 The "utility balcony" connects the kitchen and the living room. It's about 40 inches wide.


The living room. You can only see a little of the water staining alongside the heat/cooling unit at the top of the photo.


Looking back toward the "utility balcony" from the living room. Note the water stains above the door. They extended along a broad swath of the ceiling as well.

After we got the keys, Asher and I spent a full weekend patching the walls, installing a florescent light in the kitchen and repairing all manner of miscellany. I spent the following week painting pretty much every flat surface in the apartment, including multiple coats on all of the water stains. The next weekend, Asher returned and we installed shelves and he, Michal and I moved all of our belongings from the old place to the new.

And so, without further ado, our new place.

Michal's desk fits pretty nicely in the strangely big entryway. It was Michal's idea to cover the bedroom door glass with the Mexican rug. Quite colorful, no?


Another view of the entryway. The front door is on the far right.


The bathroom will never be perfect, but considering our old bathroom wasn't much bigger than the tub, we're satisfied.


The bedroom. It's just big enough.


 We considered not having a closet in the bedroom to give us more room, but decided it would be too weird to have to walk to the living room to get your clothes.


This side of the kitchen isn't all that different except for the addition of the oven..


 ..but the opposite side is 100% better than it was.

And we're far from done in the kitchen: when Michal's sister and brother-in-law, Merav and Yaniv, move to their new home in February they'll give us another couple of shelves. One will go at counter height to complete an 'L' (or 'ר' depending upon your perspective), replacing the brown wooden desk seen above. The other two shelves will go above the built-in cabinets shown in the previous picture, also in an 'L' ('ר') configuration except at eye level.

A funny thing happened when I went looking online for "small kitchen ideas": nearly every kitchen I saw was larger than ours. Yet when I drew a floor plan for some of Michal's family and described our plans, their comment was "Wow, so you have a big kitchen. Nice." Go figure.


 The living room. We actually have someplace to sit. Hooray!


 The other side of the living room. Man, that rug makes the place look classy. Really ties the room together, ya know?


The water stains around the heat/cooling unit are almost completely covered by fresh paint.

And that's pretty much it. We have way too long of a list of projects we'd still like to do, but we're in and settled.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Sneak Into Petra: It's Fun, Easy and Free!

A couple of friends is are gonna give this a shot. Wish them him luck.


Screw those prices.


The general lay of the land.

The Amra Palace Hotel (marked on the following map) is the last major structure above the entrance to Petra. It's huge: you can't miss it. Normal people go to the left and down below the Amra (red). The more adventuresome (and poor) go to the right, down the dry river bed below the Amra (blue). As you're heading down this river bed, the Amra will be directly behind you and there will be a road above and to the right. You're following a water course. Just move downhill and you'll be fine.


From Lonely Planet.

The general idea is quite simple: head downhill directly away from the Amra Palace Hotel. When the canyon starts getting tall and narrow, turn left. After a few hundred meters another canyon joins from the left. I DO NOT RECOMMEND TAKING THIS LEFT. This canyon will lead back through the Nabotean Tunnel to the main entrance to Petra (the Siq). There is a Tourist Police kiosk right there.


Heading down from the Amra Palace Hotel. There's a big rock.


Canyon starts to narrow. Keep to the right as long as possible.


You'll see Nabotean irrigation channels.


Looks impassible, but head for the gigantic boulder on the left, there's a bit of a cleft.


Bingo. Slither through.


Right after you get through the cleft, turn around. Nabotean niches. You're on the right track.


Also, rock cut steps. Keep going.


There's a pretty decent sized tree. You're about to make a 90 degree turn to the left.


It'll take a bit of scrambling, but just keep going down hill.


There might be a little water, but it shouldn't be more than waist deep. Just be careful for loose stones and whatnot. Bad place to twist an ankle, right?


See those arrows? IGNORE THEM. Don't turn left. Keep going straight.

Another couple of hundred meters beyond this point and the canyon will widen out and you'll see ruins in the distance. You're in.

A few pieces of general advice:
  • Flash floods are exceedingly dangerous and unpredictable. If there is a chance of rain, I would strongly recommend against attempting to sneak in. In even a relatively light rain, these canyons could very quickly become raging torrents, and for long stretches there is absolutely no way to higher ground.
  • I never saw any guards or security personnel watching from the Amra Palace Hotel or the nearby parking lots, but nonetheless, it is probably a good idea to leave pretty early in the morning.
  • If you have the time, it's also not a bad idea to scout around a little before actually making the attempt. Perhaps on the afternoon you arrive in Wadi Musa. Just don't do what I did.
  • Bring water, food and layered clothing. Seriously, you don't want to do what I did.
Good luck! - !בהצלחה